Freeze Prep for Your Pool in The Colony, TX — Don't Repeat 2021

February 2021 taught every pool owner in The Colony the same lesson: a Texas freeze is not a minor inconvenience you can ignore for a few days. Cracked pump housings, split PVC lines, destroyed heaters, and flooded equipment pads across Austin Waters, Stewart Peninsula, and The Tribute resulted in repair bills that ran from hundreds to thousands of dollars per pool. And it was almost entirely preventable.

The Colony's position near Lewisville Lake adds a wrinkle to freeze prep that pool owners in landlocked cities like Allen or Murphy don't face. The lake moderates temperatures slightly — preventing the coldest extremes — but it also generates higher humidity. That humidity creates a secondary freeze risk: ice accumulation on equipment and above-ground plumbing that can be more damaging than the air temperature alone would suggest. Moisture condensation on exposed PVC, pump housings, and filter tanks freezes faster and more thoroughly than in drier inland air.

For a broader look at freeze protection across North DFW, see our guide on protecting your pool during a Texas freeze. This post goes deeper into The Colony's specific conditions and the equipment-level prep that matters most.

The One Rule That Prevents 90% of Freeze Damage

Run the pump continuously when the air temperature drops below 35°F. Not 32°F — the extra margin accounts for wind chill, radiant cooling, and the fact that above-ground plumbing and equipment are exposed to air temperatures colder than what your patio thermometer reads.

Moving water resists freezing. A pool pump pushing water through the plumbing at full flow prevents ice formation even at sustained temperatures in the low 20s. The water temperature in the pool (typically 45-55°F in winter) is well above freezing, and as long as it's moving through the system, it keeps everything above the freeze point.

The moment circulation stops — the clock starts. Stagnant water in above-ground PVC pipes can begin freezing within 2-4 hours at 25°F, faster with wind. Underground pipes are somewhat protected by soil temperature, but above-ground segments — from the pool to the equipment pad and from the equipment pad back to the pool — are fully exposed.

In The Colony, the lake-effect humidity means frost forms earlier and heavier on equipment surfaces. A thin layer of ice on the outside of a PVC pipe acts as an insulator in the wrong direction — it traps cold against the pipe and accelerates internal freezing.

What If the Power Goes Out?

This is what destroyed equipment across DFW in February 2021. The freeze itself was survivable — it was the multi-day power outage that killed the pumps.

Preparation for power loss during a freeze:

1. Open all drain plugs on the pump, filter, heater, chlorinator, and any auxiliary equipment (booster pump, salt cell, automation system). This allows water to drain from the equipment rather than sitting inside and expanding as it freezes.
2. Open the air relief valve on the filter tank to break the vacuum and allow water to drain out.
3. Disconnect and drain the pump if possible. Remove the drain plug from the pump housing and tilt the pump to empty residual water from the volute and impeller housing.
4. Blow out the plumbing lines if you have access to a shop vac or air compressor. This forces standing water out of vulnerable above-ground pipe segments. Focus on the lines between the pool and the equipment pad.
5. Add pool antifreeze (propylene glycol — not automotive antifreeze, which is toxic) to the skimmer and return lines if you can't blow them out. This is available at pool supply stores and lowers the freeze point of residual water in the lines.

These steps take about 45 minutes and can save $2,000-5,000 in equipment replacement and plumbing repairs.

Equipment-Specific Freeze Prep

Pool Pump

The pump is the most commonly damaged component in a freeze. Water trapped in the pump volute (the main housing) expands as it freezes and cracks the housing. Pump housing replacement for common brands (Pentair, Hayward, Jandy) runs $150-400 for the part alone, plus labor.

Prep: If the pump is running, it's fine — flowing water won't freeze. If power is lost and you can't run the pump, remove the drain plugs (most pumps have two — one on the volute and one on the strainer basket housing). Let all water drain out. Leave the plugs out until the freeze is over.

Pool Heater

Heaters are expensive and freeze-vulnerable. Both gas heaters and heat pumps have internal heat exchangers with narrow passages that crack when ice forms inside them. Heat exchanger replacement costs $800-1,500 — often approaching the cost of a new heater.

Prep: Open the heater's drain plug and drain all water from the heat exchanger. If your heater has a "winterize" mode in the control panel, activate it — this opens internal valves and drains internal components. If not, the manual drain plug is usually located at the bottom rear of the unit.

Critical for The Colony: The higher humidity means condensation forms on the heater's exterior and inside the cabinet even when the heater isn't in use. Before a freeze, wipe down the interior of the heater cabinet and ensure the burner tray and ignition components are dry. Frozen condensation inside the heater cabinet can damage gas valves and electronic controls.

Salt Cell

The salt cell housing is plastic and contains water in a narrow chamber. If water freezes inside the cell, the housing cracks and the cell is destroyed. Replacement: $400-800.

Prep: If the pump is running, water flows through the cell and won't freeze. If power is lost, the cell should be removed from the plumbing and stored indoors. Most salt cells connect with union fittings that allow tool-free removal. Once removed, drain the cell, rinse it, and bring it inside until the freeze passes.

Filter

Cartridge filters and DE filters have plastic tanks that can crack if water inside freezes. Sand filters have fiberglass or composite tanks that are slightly more resistant but still vulnerable.

Prep: Open the air relief valve at the top of the filter to break the siphon. Open the drain plug at the bottom. This allows the tank to empty. If you have a multiport valve, set it to "winterize" or "closed" to prevent water from flowing back into the drained filter.

Pool Plumbing

Above-ground PVC pipes between the pool shell and the equipment pad are the weakest link. PVC becomes brittle in freezing temperatures and doesn't have the elasticity to accommodate ice expansion.

Prep: If the pump is running, water movement protects the pipes. If power is lost, the pipe segments between the pool and the equipment pad are at highest risk. Wrapping exposed pipes with foam pipe insulation (available at any hardware store for about $3-5 per 6-foot section) slows heat loss and buys time. Heat tape (electric pipe heating cable) provides active freeze protection but requires power — useless during an outage.

For the highest-risk segments, pool antifreeze in the lines is the backup.

The Freeze-Prep Checklist for The Colony

Before Freeze Season (November — Do This Once)

• ☐ Inspect all equipment drain plugs — make sure they're present, not stripped, and removable
• ☐ Buy foam pipe insulation and install on all above-ground PVC runs
• ☐ Buy 2-3 gallons of pool antifreeze (propylene glycol) — keep on hand
• ☐ Confirm the pump's freeze protection mode is programmed correctly on the automation system (if you have one)
• ☐ Test the pump breaker — make sure you can turn the pump on/off manually if the automation fails
• ☐ Note the location of every drain plug on every piece of equipment — heater, pump, filter, chlorinator, booster pump

When a Freeze Is Forecast (24-48 Hours Before)

• ☐ Verify the pump is running and set to run continuously until temperatures rise above 35°F
• ☐ If you have automation (Pentair IntelliCenter, Hayward OmniLogic, Jandy iAquaLink), confirm the freeze protection feature is enabled — it should automatically run the pump when temperature sensors detect near-freezing conditions
• ☐ Lower the water level slightly if heavy rain or ice melt is expected during the freeze — preventing overflow
• ☐ Remove any accessories that could crack (handheld skimmer poles, detachable vacuum hoses, floating chlorinators)
• ☐ Have your equipment drain plug locations and instructions accessible in case of power loss at 3 AM

During the Freeze (Active Monitoring)

• ☐ Check the pump every 4-6 hours to confirm it's still running
• ☐ If the pump trips a breaker, reset it immediately — the pump tripping during a freeze is a critical failure
• ☐ If power goes out: immediately begin the drain-down procedure (pump, heater, filter, salt cell, plumbing)
• ☐ Do NOT attempt to run a gas pool heater to "warm" the water — the heater needs flowing water to operate safely, and running it during uncertain power conditions can damage the unit

After the Freeze (Thaw Inspection)

• ☐ Visually inspect all equipment for cracks before turning the pump back on
• ☐ Check the pump housing for hairline cracks — run your finger along the seams and look for moisture weeping
• ☐ Check all PVC fittings and glue joints for cracks or separation
• ☐ Turn the pump on and watch for leaks at every fitting, union, and valve for 15 minutes
• ☐ Check the heater cabinet interior for moisture, frozen condensation, or damaged components
• ☐ Reinstall the salt cell if it was removed
• ☐ Replace all drain plugs before running equipment
• ☐ Test water chemistry — pH and alkalinity may have shifted during the freeze period

The Colony's Freeze Frequency

Despite being in North Texas, The Colony doesn't freeze often enough for homeowners to develop muscle memory. The average winter brings 5-10 nights below 32°F and 1-3 events with sustained temperatures below 28°F. A truly severe freeze (sustained below 20°F for 24+ hours) happens roughly once every 5-10 years — but when it does, the damage is disproportionate because preparation is inconsistent.

The lake's moderating effect means The Colony's freeze events are often slightly milder than inland cities like McKinney or Prosper, where temperatures can run 2-3 degrees colder on clear nights. But the humidity effect works the other direction — equipment and pipes in The Colony ice over faster due to condensation freezing.

The net result: The Colony pool owners need the same level of freeze preparedness as any other North DFW city, but with extra attention to moisture management on equipment.

What 2021 Actually Cost

For context, the February 2021 winter storm caused an estimated $400-800 million in residential swimming pool damage across Texas. Equipment lead times stretched to 6-12 months for pumps, heaters, and salt cells. Homeowners in The Colony who lost equipment in February couldn't get replacements until late spring or summer — missing most of the swim season.

The total prep cost for a single freeze event — pipe insulation, antifreeze, and the electricity to run the pump for 48-72 hours continuously — is under $50. The cost of not prepping is $1,000-5,000+ in equipment replacement, plus months of wait time for parts.

The math makes this the easiest decision in pool ownership.

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